Analog is the antithesis of digital—a tweaker's paradise. To me, buying new is no fun, and rolling up my sleeves is part of the pleasure. There's nothing more satisfying than turning a $20 yard-sale find into a real music maker for a few dollars and some elbow grease. If that doesn't sound like your cup of soymilk, you can stop reading right here.
Linear tracking isn't perfect, particularly when it's done on the cheap, and a pivoting arm is preferable. That said, if the bearings, contacts, and tracking mechanism of the linear arm are clean and well-lubricated, it's nearly impossible to damage your records, and they'll be preserved for the day when you can afford to step up to a higher-quality unit. (I used a linear-tracking table during the 1980s, and my records are in near mint condition.) When shopping for a linear-tracking model, be sure the arm moves smoothly across the record surface without dragging. Also, be sure that the automatic features work properly. Disassembling and servicing a linear-tracking turntable takes some know-how, so stay clear of any that aren't 100 percent operational.
Your best bet for sound quality and ease of setup is a non-suspended belt-drive turntable. You'll pay less for less desirable nameplates, yet the sound quality may be very good. When shopping, the two most important factors are the condition of the platter bearing and the toneram bearings. Spin the platter with the belt removed. Its rotation should be silent, smooth, and steady, with no wobbles or rubbing noises. If it doesn't spin like a greased roulette wheel, look elsewhere. Next, grasp the tonearm by the headshell (where the cartridge is mounted) and give it a gentle tug horizontally and vertically. If there is any play in the bearings, the table is to be avoided. Most tonearm bearings should only be adjusted and lubricated by a professional. If you find an otherwise nice table with a hazy or scratched dustcover, don't be deterred—it can be polished.
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